I awake to the sounds of silence in the Sunsetters Park
RV. I had set the alarm for six to get
an early start, very cognizant that my short-term future is in the hands of the
Ford Motor Company. I went to sleep with
the comforting thought that my engine merely was polluting the environment and
was not a deadly threat.
With the light of dawn things went surprisingly well. I fixed my coffee, shaved and took a hot
shower. I sipped my coffee and checked
my email. Packing up the Airstream was
much easier and faster than previous mornings.
I disconnected all the hoses, emptied the trash, checked all the
compartments and was ready to roll in record time. Sure, I had yet to get the grill working and
was on my third consecutive night of frozen dinners but a hot shower counts for
something doesn’t it? I was buoyed by the notion that perhaps I was finally
soaring up that steep and daunting learning curve.
There was only one trepidation hanging over my head. Would the truck start? Would that menacing orange icon light up once
again? Only one way to find out. Start the truck. Curiously, I caught myself stalling. I walked around the Airstream once too
often. Checking and then rechecking to
see that all the plug caps were tight, that the step was up and the TV antenna
was down. I knew they all were. It was more than sunup now- maybe 8:30 or so
and I was still tidying up the trailer, double then triple checking things,
locking compartments when I admitted to myself that it was long past time to
face reality. I had to turn on the
truck. If the icon was still there my
thought was to limp into Blythe, California where last night I found a Ford
dealership and see if they could fix my truck.
That or simply push on and risk blowing up my engine while hoping all
the way that it was some simple emissions control system malfunction. (whatever
the hell that means!) Either way my
reckoning had arrived.
I climbed in the F-150 inserted the key and cranked it. The engine promptly started all the dashboard
warning lights blinked on for a brief second and then all but one blinked
off. That one was the little man without
his seatbelt fastened, not the evil orange engine!
I was elated. The orange
engine icon was off! I was saved! And also vindicated. My theory worked! All the truck needed was a little rest and it
would heal itself. Triumphantly, I buckled my seat belt and pulled out of the Sunsetters RV Park toward the open road.
As I eased out onto I-10 for the last 250 miles to LA I was actually
thinking about writing the Ford Motor Company to suggest that this concept of let it rest and it will heal itself should
be written into its owners’ manual. I was
overcome with another more powerful thought. In spite of my successful
technique in having my truck cure itself, I had ignored the advice of Rich
Luhr, the Airstream guru – Go slow – pick a lane and stay in it. I realized that in my eagerness to see my
daughter I had violated that one most basic tenant of Airstreaming. In had driven like a civilian yesterday. As soon as I heard from Kat, I abandoned the
back roads, hit the Interstate and started to focus on making time. I was doing 70 to 75 miles per hour, passing
other cars, switching lanes and in the process not only almost blew up my truck
but missed a big hunk of the trip. I
decided to go back to basics, not only for the sake of my truck – if the icon
came on again I would plunge back into jeopardy – but for the sake of my
trip. I was not sure why I was out here
but rushing forward would only force me to miss the present. After all wasn’t that really what this trip
in its most basic form was all about - Don’t worry about the future or fret
about the past but focus fully on the present.
I eased off the accelerator and slipped in behind a truck doing 55 and started
to enjoy the trip again.
As I said, I love that states look like states. The strange thing about California is that it
doesn’t look like California right away – at least until you get to Palm
Springs. I mean there are miles and
miles of desert in California. You gotta
get pretty close to LA before California looks like California. I suspect that the powers that be in California
realized this and decided to do something about it. The Colorado River is the border along I-10
separating Arizona from California. As
you drive over the bridge and enter California, the Colorado River looks like a
little piece of paradise.
Welcome to California. |
There are palm trees clustered along the winding blue
river. I could be dead wrong but I swear
all the palm trees and other greenery were all on the California side of the
river. It a desert in Arizona, then you
cross the bridge and everything is lush.
The scene assures you that you are in the right place. “Yep, this is it. What I have been traveling all this was for
folks. This is California.” I don’t know if this was Mother Nature’s
doing or the California Department of Tourism but it does the trick. You get excited. I’ve made it to California! So, where are the movie stars? This blissful feeling last for quite a while. The truth is you are still a long, long way
from movie stars - another couple of hours of desert and then you have to deal
with the LA traffic. The goal is still hefty
250 miles down the road. A long slog through the desert that doesn’t pick up
until you get to the windmills that sprout up outside of Palm Springs along
I-10.
I know these windmills are meaningful but I just can’t come
up with the significance. By now, I too
focused on my destination to ponder their significance. As I get closer to LA I am in touch with Kat
through text messaging – another miracle of communication that I attribute to
Mr. Jobs. I tell her now I am only 35
miles away. She responds, “Why don’t you
come to the office. We can have some
lunch.” I think about Wilshire Blvd. and
my Airstream but am too anxious to see her, so I respond, “I am on my way.”
Outside - The Pacific Dining Car |
Inside - A railroad dining car - Only in LA |
My initial thought is that I can probably park in the
johnnie-O parking lot, which is always empty.
Johnnie-O shares this huge parking lot with a relic of a restaurant, called
the Pacific Dining Car. The place is an
unusual 24-hour, white table cloth restaurant with an interior fashioned to
look like a turn of the century railroad dining car. It could only exist in LA.
I figured I might just pull in the lot. After all the lot had been empty whenever I visited Kat. I carefully turned the corner of Wilshire and Princeton Street and was surprised to see the parking lot full. I realized that every time before this when I visited Kat it was Saturday morning or in the late afternoon. Now, at 2:30 the parking lot was full and a handful of valet parking people were standing around. The Pacific Dining Car was apparently doing a pretty healthy lunch business; way too healthy to accommodate a 25’ trailer pulled by a Ford F-150. I also had failed to notice on my previous trips the huge canopy awning at the entrance of the valet parking area. Even if the lot was empty the Airstream would never fit under the awning. I drove slowly down Princeton street wondering what to do. Parking in LA is challenging everywhere. Parking a pickup truck pulling an Airstream is impossible. You’d think I would have thought of that before now. Such is my current state of mind.
I figured I might just pull in the lot. After all the lot had been empty whenever I visited Kat. I carefully turned the corner of Wilshire and Princeton Street and was surprised to see the parking lot full. I realized that every time before this when I visited Kat it was Saturday morning or in the late afternoon. Now, at 2:30 the parking lot was full and a handful of valet parking people were standing around. The Pacific Dining Car was apparently doing a pretty healthy lunch business; way too healthy to accommodate a 25’ trailer pulled by a Ford F-150. I also had failed to notice on my previous trips the huge canopy awning at the entrance of the valet parking area. Even if the lot was empty the Airstream would never fit under the awning. I drove slowly down Princeton street wondering what to do. Parking in LA is challenging everywhere. Parking a pickup truck pulling an Airstream is impossible. You’d think I would have thought of that before now. Such is my current state of mind.
Where we were going to leave the Airstream certainly didn‘t
cross Kat’s mind either. Every time we
spoke she’d say, “Don’t worry about it.
Venice Beach has people living on the street. They won’t mind an Airstream.” So when I turned on Wilshire I called her on
my IPhone. The first thing she asks, “Hey,
Where are you going to park?” “That’s
what I have been saying every time we spoke,” I replied. “I’m on my way,” she said hanging up. I
circled the block maneuvered around Wilshire once more and there she was with
Loo Loo.
Luckily there was enough room in front of the parking garage entrance
of an apartment down the block from the restaurant that I was able to pull over
to the curb and get out of the traffic.
Rather than immediately solve our problem I gave Loo Loo and Kat a tour
of the Airstream. Kat never lacks
exuberance, which is her great strength.
“Wow! This is so cool,” said
Gatto. Her ebullience was more essential than my parking problem. I gave the two of them the tour of the master
bed room, the kitchen, the toilet and the shower. She raved the entire time about what a great
thing it is, how much fun it was going to be and what a good diea it had been
to buy it. Our shared euphoria was
shattered when we heard a car horn. I
stuck my head out of the open Airstream door to see a car which was looking to
pull into the apartment’s parking garage.
It thought we were in for a problem but the mystical quality of the
Airstream kicked in. The driver couldn’t
have been nicer. I could tell at a
glance he thought the Airstream was “cool.”
He wave me off announcing that there was no problem and that he would
wait patiently. He even volunteered to
park on the street. In the meantime, Kat
– naturally – used her IPhone and instantly came up with a solution. “You gotta
head to Dockweiler’s.” Dockweiler’s it
turns out is an RV Park, operated by LA County located right on the beach near
LAX. I grabbed my IPhone, punched in the
address, thanked our patient driver and told Kat I’d be in touch.
Dockweiler’s, it turns out is in Play del Mar, just six miles
down the coast from Kat’s cottage in Venice.
Being part of a state beach complex it was priced right - $55.00 per
night to be on the Pacific Ocean! True
it is under the LAX takeoff path but an ocean view room will run you $450.00 a
night in Santa Monica. I had hit on a
real deal.
The plan became to find a spot there, unhitch the Airstream, drive
my truck over to Kat’s house, meet up with her after work and go out and get a
real meal. A great plan – until I
checked in and realized that the park had no pull through spots. Up until now everywhere I stayed had “pull
throughs”. A pull through is a parking
spot where you can drive in the front, hook up and in the morning drive
straight through. The beauty of this is
you never have to back up the trailer.
“You are in spot 114,” the young lady at the check-in counter
announced.
My heart was in my throat as I drove slowly through the lot
looking for 114. Damn it. Of course, the slot had parked RV’s on both
sides of it. To compound things the area
was super tight. I was going to have to pull
ahead then cut the Airstream as sharp as I could, deliberately jack knifing it
to get into the space. My dread tripled
when I noticed two veterans RV’ers sitting in their folding lawn chairs in the
spot next to mine. Of course, I didn’t
know if there were veteran RV’ers but they looked the part. They had one of these massive RV’s called fifth
wheelers. A fifth wheeler is a two level
trailer that actually contains a master bedroom suspended over truck bed. They are
designed to be towed by a truck much bigger than mine called duallies. Duallies are those huge pickups with four
wheels in the back rather than two. I
have an F-150. Duallies have numbers
like F-450! Don’t know what the numbers
stand for but it the truck world 450 trumps 150, I can tell you that. The immense
fifth wheeler was serenely parked and unhitched from the dually. Got it?
You can see why I figured they were veterans?
I pulled past my slot, took a deep breath and started to back
up. (Another Luhr axiom flashed in my
brain – “When backing up - Go slow.”) Moving
cautiously, I didn’t do too badly. This
might work, I thought. What happens with
trailers, at least with my trailers, is once you get past a certain point there
seems to be a point of no recovery. You
have to go forward, like I did at the Jiffey Lube, straighten out, then try
again. My problem this time is there is
no going forward. I would hit a wooden
fence. I stopped for a second to catch
my breath, calm down and try to figure what to do next. I got out of the truck to do a quick survey (another piece of advice
from Rich Luhr, who is rapidly becoming the Steve Jobs of Airstreaming for
me.) As I jumped down from the truck I
noticed my other neighbor, an old guy in one of those electric wheel
chairs. He sported a long grey beard, a
tattered cowboy hat and skinny arms laden with tattoos. He looked at me expressionless and said, “Cut
‘er hard the other way.” I mumbled,
“Thanks”, jumped back in the truck and cut
‘er hard the other way. I backed up
slowly and the trailer responded. Soon,
however I felt that I was starting to reach that point of no return. As I started to reverse to the wheel my wheel
chaired friend said, “No. Keep cutting
it.” I turned it back as he
suggested. “That’s it.” I looked over my shoulder and one of my RV
vets was now standing behind my trailer signaling for me to keep backing
up. The Airstream glided like an
aircraft carrier on water as it glided slowly into its dock. On the vet’s halt signal I jumped out to
thank them both. “Thanks so much. Just bought this thing. That’s the second time I’ve backed it up,”
trying to explain the reason for my incompetence. “We all been there,” the vet said not even
looking my way as he stomped out his cigarette butt and returned to his folding
lawn chair. He was right. We’ve all been there.
It took me no time at all now to unhitch the Airstream,
checking all the systems and locking up.
As I took off for Kat’s my new friends had all disappeared, for a walk
down the beach or to settle into their own homes on wheels. As I drove out of Dockweiler’s
turning left on the Vista Del Mar to head for the
first non-frozen dinner of my trip my only thought was – Maybe he’s right. Just maybe, we’ve all been there.
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