Monday, March 17, 2014

May The Road Rise Up To Meet You

Quartzsite, Arizona - March 17, 2014
When I finished my writing for the evening it was already past 11, so content that I had kept up the writing for three entire days, I brushed my teeth and jumped in bed, completely ignoring the fact that I had not yet fixed the hot water issue. 

I went to bed not worrying about heat or cold.  The Airstream was nice and cozy at 11 and I figured how cold can it get Las Cruses, New Mexico?  The answer is damn cold.  Thirty-five degrees at four in the morning.  That was when I woke up repeating the performance of the night before, this time struggling to turn on the heat.  Be it never said I don’t make the same mistake twice.   I switched on the heat and jumped back in bed.  I was kidding myself. All I could think about is that I hadn’t bothered to attack the hot water problem.  It wasn’t going to fix itself.  In spite of the cold – the heater eventually kicked in – I pulled on my black t-shirt and blue jeans.   There would be no sleeping for me tonight. 

At 4:15 I pulled out my Kindle and re-read the portion of Luhr’s book concerning the water heater.  I went to the Airstream owners manual which does more to intimidate than inform for a luddite like myself.  Crammed with wiring, plumbing and yes, propane line diagrams I lay under the covers totally baffled. 

At about 5 am I remember the walk around I did with the previous owner, a great guy named Tim who runs a German car repair business in Fort Worth.  (I figured the best guy in the world to buy an Airstream from was a guy who repaired cars!)  He did point inside one of the little compartments that are located all over the outside of the Airstream.  When Tim walked me through everything the day we closed the sale.  His instructions feel in deaf ears.  I’m afraid I was much more concerned about how I would get the Airstream out of his parking lot without ripping out his chain link fence.  I absorbed little.  Thinking back to that little compartment he did point out white and red water lines.  They had something to do with the hot water.  I paged through the owners manual until I found a paragraph entitled “Water Heater Bypass.”  I stumbled outside in the dark using – you guessed it – mu I-Phone for light and discovered that I had the hot waterline turned off.  After a two-day hiatus I was destined to start off the day with a shave and shower.  Life is good.

It was Monday, I had showered and shaved,  I was even confident that somewhere along the next 800 hundred miles I was sure to find my propane.  I figured I’d put in 600 miles or so and stop in Joshua Tree National Park with a nod to U2.  “I Still Haven’t Got What I’m Looking For’, seemed like an appropriate sound track for my journey.  I’d have my propane and finally enjoy my steak.  And it was St. Patrick’s Day.  What better way to celebrate than with on Ireland’s premiere rock band’s home turf?  Then on Tuesday have an easy 200 mile day into LA – if the Los Angeles freeways pulling an Airstream could ever be considered easy.  That was a plan.  I turned once again to Apple and downloaded The Best of U2 1990 – 2000 to get in the spirit and hit the road.

I was cruising down I-10 without a care in the world.  I was master of my airstream domain.  I had all the systems working, pulled away from my spot in record time and figured I had it licked.  That was when another warning went off.  Change oil. 

I had a sign on my dashboard telling me that I needed to change oil, apparently right now.    I had not even left Las Cruces.  There can be little doubt of what I would do.  Of course, Apple to the rescue once again.  I got out my phone typed “oil change in the maps app and up popped Jiffy Lube, a mere 2.3 miles away.

As I pulled into the Jiffy Lube the guy waved me off.  He walked up to my window and said,  “You gotta unhitch the trailer.  Just back it up over there,” as he pointed to the back of the parking lot.  Back up?  Back up?  I had never backed up this thing.  “Hey, I’ll guide you.”  It wasn’t guidance I needed.  It was practice.  But how could I tell this guy I had never backed this thing up.

He started waving his arms like he was with the ground crew at O’Hare.  I looked at him in the rear view mirror, grabbed the wheel and started backing up.   There are no rules for backing up a trailer.  Everyone will tell you there is, but the physics of backing up a trailer would stymie Einstein.   I know, I know.  Turn in the opposite direction that you normally would.  Bullshit.  There is much more going on here than that.  OK – you turn backwards but you are looking backwards or in my case looking at the rearview mirror at some guy waving his arms.  The mirror makes him backwards again which is a double negative so you steer the same direction he says or the opposite.  I think the hitch ball has a mind of its own.  Who in their right mind buys a trailer then heads out on the Interstate having never backed one up?  The answer is obvious.

Back and forth I struggled.  The trailer kept jacking knifing.  I would go forward to straighten everything out and then try it again.  Each time I did this I got further away from where the guy wanted me to drop off the trailer and closer to the front of the Jiffy Lube garage where two other Jiffy Lube guys had formed a little audience for me, adding to my anxiety.  Finally, I could go no further.  Rather than pay any attention to my Jiffy Lube friend I turned around, looked over my shoulder and, low and behold backed the damn thing up where we wanted me.  How I accomplished I have no idea, but I can tell you I was rattled.

I leaped out of the truck, mumbled an explanation to Mr. Jiffy Lube that I had just bought this thing and started to unhitch the trailer.  So remember the sinister hitch from yesterday.  Rather than take it slow and easy I was embarrassed and felt like an idiot.  The whole damn device is dangerous but there are these anti-sway bars that are heavy and you have to use a metal pipe to crank them up and down – at least that is what I had be taught.  I grabbed the metal pipe and yanked hard on the release.  There is this thing called an R clip that keeps it in place so the mechanism doesn’t come loose.  The bang when it released was like a gun was shot at close range.  I remembered that I hadn’t taken out the R clip.  When I yanked on the metal pipe the thing broke and went flying across the parking lot.  If it had hit me in the chest I am certain it would have killed me.  Or at least put my eye out.  I came to the immediate relaxation that A) I was way over my head.  B) I had actually risked my life because I wanted to impress a Jiffy Lube manager that I knew what I was doing and C) I’d better drop the ego involvement and take it one step at a time.   “Ok, Bruce, get a grip,” I said to myself.  I slowed way down, unhitched the Airstream and drove my truck into the Jiffy Lube.   Forty minutes later I was back on the road, at little late but a little wiser. 

The Interstate is not nearly as interesting as when you get off the beaten track, but I was rolling in the right direction so I was pleased.  The interesting thing that I find is that states look like they should.  When you are in Texas, it looks like Texas.  When you get to New Mexico, it looks like New Mexico.  Somehow as soon as you get to New Mexico mountains appear.  Maybe New Mexicans call them hills but in Texas They are mountains.  Along the I-10 they loom on the horizon and, maybe this is my imagination but they look red to me.  Sort of what New Mexico should look like.  The sky was wispier clouds than you see in Texas – Cirrus if I’m not mistaken.  They seem way high in the sky, which is big and looks a long way away. 



What New Mexico looks like.


Arizona on the other hand is all about rocks.  You get a great intro to Arizona rocks along I-10 about an hour into Arizona - Texas Canyon.



Arizona is about rocks and Texas Canyon has got some good ones.

I pass through Tucson and then Phoenix felling pretty good about myself.  Moving west from Phoenix it is a long haul to Joshua Tree National Park, but I am up of it.  It struck me that perhaps i should have filled up before I left Phoenix.  The desert shows up fast when you leave Phoenix moving west.  I thought better safe than sorry.  So when I saw a gas station sitting by itself off of I-10 just as the suburbs receded and the desert started, I decided to fill up.  That is when I knew things were going my way.

These guys sold propane.   I filled up my little tank and thought, "Tonight I celebrate St. Patrick's Day in Joshua Tree with a steak."

It seemed that way.  I was screaming down the highway - had my cruise control at 65, then 70. I had gotten used to the Airstream.  Didn't bother me at all.  I was proud of my learning curve.  I was pretty good at this.  I was passing trucks, switching lanes and I wasn't worried at all.  I was making great time.  Great time -  until I noticed another light on my dashboard.  This one looked bad.  It was a little orange icon I had never seen before.  The little icon sort of looked like a piece of machinery, maybe a transmission.  Nothing was spelled out like the oil thing. There was no warning beep.  But it looked nasty. Driving along in the desert and suddenly an orange icon appears that looks like some device pops up.  I couldn't figure out what it represented but I can tell you, it was no smiley face.
Ok - You can tell its an engine but look at this when it is staring at you from the dashboard and it could be anything! 

  I pulled over to a rest stop.  Up until this trip I had never quite understood rest stops.  Why stop at a rest stop?  Just stop for gas.  Stop at McDoanld's.  Why stop to rest?  Suddenly, I needed a rest -- or my engine sure did.
Resting at the Rest Stop

OK - what's it gonna be.  I figure I am 150 miles from Joshua Tree - 250 miles from Venice Beach.  At a desert rest stop.  It is 89 degrees by the way though that is the least of my worries.  So, here are my choices.  Ignore the icon and keep going to Joshua Tree, eat my steak and know that this too will pass.  Plunge on to Venice.  Not an option.  I am suddenly tired of all this road tripping.  The third option - count on Steve Jobs.  I put rv park into my map app on the phone and up pops Sunsetters RV Park - a mere 26 miles down the highway.  I have always been a firm believer that if you rest a broken machine it will heal itself.  This doesn't work very often but I continually to believe that this could happen.  Its my first thought when something mechanical or electrical breaks, "Let it rest.  It might heal itself." 

So, off I go down the road - Now at 55 mph in spite of the 75 mph speed limit.  The little icon seems to be mumblingly to me "Red Rum, Red Rum" like the little girl in The Shining.  Just freakin' me out.    I am just waiting for the engine to stop, the steering wheel to freeze up as I go a careening off the road at 65 miles per hour followed by two tons of aluminum trailer with three full propane tanks.  That is what would happen in the movies, but I mange slowly, to cover the 26 miles, sweat pouring down my cheeks and pull into Sunsetters RV Park in Quartzsite, Arizona, population 3,500.    Quartzsite, in case you don't recognize the name is quite famous.  It seems that every January as many as 750,000 to one million people, mostly in RV;s converge on Quartzsite for its annual rock, gem and mineral show - along with numerous flee markets.   
This annual gathering is now billed as the largest gathering of RVers on the planet.  Yes, I am marking my calendar for January 2015.

So, Sunsetters RV Park may look like a dump to you but I was thrilled to be pulling in.  And for $23.85 per night, not a bad deal.  I pulled into my spot, paid my fee and started to cook my steak dinner.  Forget about tomorrow.  I'm banking on the old F-159 to cure itself.  In the meantime as the sun started to set on sleepy Quartzsite I hooked up the propane tank, got the instructions out for my grill and read carefully.  The part that was the most discouraging was, "Hold a lighted match near the fist propane escape hole."  Hold a flame? What?  I have no freakin' flame!  And there is no one around to lend me one. Yet, another night with no steak.

I am treated to my third straight night of frozen dinners.  I cross the street to the Roadrunner Market and select Banquet Meat Loaf with corn and mashed potatoes.  
The Road Runner Market - Quartzsite's finest!

Just so no one thinks I am totally irresponsible and reckless (a reputation I have somehow acquired over the years.) I did come back to my Airstream and search on the internet for the meaning of my dangerous icon.  According to Ford, the little thing is a Check Engine Light.  It is a warning indicator that means the computer on the truck has determined that a component or system of my emission control system is not working properly.  I know I am headed to California tomorrow and they are dead serious about emission control but it is comforting to know that the truck won't explode tomorrow.

in my relief I remember that it was St. Patrick's Day. And tomorrow is another day.  











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